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The database

All 117 ingredients we track.

Every active ingredient in the Glow Table, with what it does for your skin, its evidence tier, and where you'll most commonly find it. Filter by function, product type, or evidence strength, or search by name, INCI label, or alias.

Function
Products
Evidence

Showing 117 of 117 ingredients.

  • Retinol

    Retinol

    Speeds up how fast your skin renews itself so old, dull cells shed faster and fresher skin shows through. Builds collagen over time, smoothing fine lines.

    Serum · Spot treatment
    Strong evidence· Vitamin A· Retinyl Alcohol
    See the dossier →
  • Tretinoin

    Tretinoin

    The prescription-strength version of retinol. Same goals (smoother, more even skin), but works faster and is more irritating. Needs a doctor.

    Serum · Spot treatment
    Strong evidenceRx only· Retinoic Acid· All-Trans Retinoic Acid
    See the dossier →
  • Adapalene

    Adapalene

    A gentler prescription retinoid that focuses on clogged pores and acne. Better tolerated than tretinoin for most skin.

    Spot treatment
    Strong evidenceRx only· Differin
    See the dossier →
  • Retinaldehyde

    Retinal

    Works like retinol but converts faster on your skin, so results come sooner with less irritation.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· Retinal· Vitamin A Aldehyde
    See the dossier →
  • Niacinamide

    Niacinamide

    A multitasker that calms redness, evens out skin tone, and helps oily skin balance out. One of the safest do-a-little-of-everything ingredients.

    Serum · Toner · Moisturizer
    Strong evidence· Vitamin B3· Nicotinamide
    See the dossier →
  • Vitamin C

    Ascorbic Acid

    Brightens dull skin and helps fade dark spots. Also defends against everyday UV and pollution damage when worn under sunscreen.

    Serum
    Strong evidence· L-Ascorbic Acid· L-AA
    See the dossier →
  • Ascorbyl Glucoside

    Ascorbyl Glucoside

    A gentler, more stable form of vitamin C. Same brightening benefits with less chance of stinging.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· AA2G
    See the dossier →
  • Salicylic Acid

    Salicylic Acid

    Goes into your pores and dissolves the oil and dead skin clogging them. Best for blackheads, whiteheads, and oily, acne-prone skin.

    Cleanser · Toner · Spot treatment
    Strong evidence· BHA· Beta Hydroxy Acid
    See the dossier →
  • Glycolic Acid

    Glycolic Acid

    Exfoliates the surface of your skin to smooth rough texture and fade dullness. The strongest of the AHAs, so start slow.

    Toner
    Strong evidence· AHA
    See the dossier →
  • Lactic Acid

    Lactic Acid

    A gentler exfoliator that also hydrates as it works. Good entry point if you have sensitive skin and want to try acids.

    Toner · Moisturizer
    Strong evidence· AHA
    See the dossier →
  • Mandelic Acid

    Mandelic Acid

    The slowest, gentlest exfoliating acid. Resurfaces with the least irritation, especially friendly to sensitive and deeper skin tones.

    Toner · Cleanser
    Strong evidence· AHA
    See the dossier →
  • Azelaic Acid

    Azelaic Acid

    Calms redness, fades acne marks, and clears bumps, all without aggravating sensitive skin. Pregnancy-safe.

    Serum · Spot treatment
    Strong evidence· Azelex
    See the dossier →
  • Hyaluronic Acid

    Sodium Hyaluronate

    A pure hydrator that holds water in your skin. Makes skin look plumper and smoother almost immediately.

    Serum · Moisturizer · Toner
    Strong evidence· HA· Hyaluronan
    See the dossier →
  • Ceramides

    Ceramide NP

    Refills the natural barrier between your skin cells. Locks moisture in, keeps irritants out, calms dry or damaged skin.

    Moisturizer
    Strong evidence· Ceramide 3· Ceramide AP
    See the dossier →
  • Squalane

    Squalane

    A lightweight oil that mimics what your skin already makes. Softens and seals in hydration without feeling greasy.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Hydrogenated Squalene
    See the dossier →
  • Bakuchiol

    Bakuchiol

    A plant-based alternative to retinol. Smooths fine lines and evens tone with much less irritation, making it safer for sensitive skin.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· Babchi Extract
    See the dossier →
  • Benzoyl Peroxide

    Benzoyl Peroxide

    Kills the bacteria that cause inflammatory acne. The first thing to reach for when you have red, painful pimples.

    Cleanser · Spot treatment
    Strong evidence· BPO
    See the dossier →
  • Zinc Oxide

    Zinc Oxide

    A physical sunscreen that sits on top of your skin and blocks UV. Broad-spectrum and gentle enough for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.

    SPF
    Sunscreen
    Moderate evidence· ZnO
    See the dossier →
  • Titanium Dioxide

    Titanium Dioxide

    Another physical sunscreen that blocks UV. Often paired with zinc oxide for full sun protection.

    SPF
    Sunscreen
    Strong evidence· TiO2
    See the dossier →
  • Hydroquinone

    Hydroquinone

    The gold-standard fade ingredient for dark spots and melasma. Prescription-only and meant for short-term use under a dermatologist.

    Spot treatment
    Strong evidenceRx only· HQ
    See the dossier →
  • Tranexamic Acid

    Tranexamic Acid

    Fades stubborn dark patches like melasma and deep marks left behind by acne or hormonal shifts. The one to reach for when other brighteners haven't worked.

    Serum
    Strong evidence· TXA
    See the dossier →
  • Matrixyl Peptides

    Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

    Signals your skin to make more collagen. Quiet but real support for firmness and fine lines with consistent daily use.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· Matrixyl· Pal-KTTKS
    See the dossier →
  • Snail Mucin

    Snail Secretion Filtrate

    A Korean-skincare staple that hydrates, soothes, and helps surface damage heal faster. Especially nice on dehydrated or post-acne skin.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· SSF· Snail Filtrate
    See the dossier →
  • Centella Asiatica

    Centella Asiatica Extract

    Also called "cica," it calms redness, repairs the skin barrier, and speeds up healing. The go-to for irritated or reactive skin.

    Serum · Toner · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Cica· Gotu Kola
    See the dossier →
  • Madecassoside

    Madecassoside

    A purified compound from the cica (centella) plant, laser-focused on calming inflammation and speeding up how fast skin heals.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· TECA component
    See the dossier →
  • Asiaticoside

    Asiaticoside

    Another cica (centella) compound. This one specifically pushes collagen production, so the benefit is more about firmness than calming.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· TECA component
    See the dossier →
  • Propolis

    Propolis Extract

    A bee-made resin that's antibacterial and anti-inflammatory. Calms breakouts and hydrates at the same time.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Bee Glue
    See the dossier →
  • Galactomyces Ferment

    Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

    A yeast-based ingredient that brightens skin tone and refines the look of pores. Made famous by SK-II essences.

    Serum · Toner
    Moderate evidence· GFF
    See the dossier →
  • Bifida Ferment Lysate

    Bifida Ferment Lysate

    A probiotic-based ingredient that strengthens your skin's defenses against irritation and environmental stress.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· Probiotic Lysate
    See the dossier →
  • Mugwort

    Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

    A Korean botanical that calms angry, reactive skin. Especially soothing during flare-ups.

    Toner · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Artemisia· Ssuk
    See the dossier →
  • Heartleaf

    Houttuynia Cordata Extract

    A calming K-beauty botanical that's also antibacterial, so it pairs well for acne-prone, sensitive skin.

    Toner · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Eo Seong Cho· Fish Mint
    See the dossier →
  • Beta-Glucan

    Beta-Glucan

    A heavy-duty hydrator that also reduces irritation. Often called "better than hyaluronic acid" for sensitive skin.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Oat Beta-Glucan· Yeast Beta-Glucan
    See the dossier →
  • Panthenol

    Panthenol

    Pro-vitamin B5. Deeply hydrates and helps repair the skin barrier, calming dry or compromised skin.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Pro-Vitamin B5· D-Panthenol
    See the dossier →
  • Adenosine

    Adenosine

    A Korean-approved anti-wrinkle ingredient that encourages collagen production for a smoother, firmer look.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· MFDS Anti-Wrinkle Active
    See the dossier →
  • Alpha Arbutin

    Alpha-Arbutin

    A safer, slower-acting alternative to prescription-strength dark-spot faders. Built for long-term use without irritation.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· Arbutin
    See the dossier →
  • Kojic Acid

    Kojic Acid

    A brightening ingredient derived from fungi that fades dark spots and evens skin tone.

    Serum · Spot treatment
    Moderate evidence· Aspergillus Metabolite
    See the dossier →
  • PHA

    Gluconolactone

    The mildest exfoliating acid. Refines texture and hydrates at the same time, and it's sensitive-skin friendly.

    Toner
    Moderate evidence· Polyhydroxy Acid· Gluconic Acid Lactone
    See the dossier →
  • Allantoin

    Allantoin

    A gentle smoother and skin-soother. Reduces flakiness and helps the surface look more even.

    Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· 5-Ureidohydantoin
    See the dossier →
  • Rice Bran Extract

    Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

    A traditional Japanese brightener with built-in antioxidants. Softens, hydrates, and adds glow.

    Toner · Serum
    Moderate evidence· Sake Lees· Komenuka
    See the dossier →
  • Pitera

    Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera)

    SK-II's signature ingredient, a specific yeast filtrate that improves clarity and texture over time.

    Toner · Serum
    Moderate evidence· SK-II Pitera
    See the dossier →
  • Astaxanthin

    Astaxanthin

    A powerful pink antioxidant from algae. Defends against UV and environmental damage.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract
    See the dossier →
  • Camellia Oil

    Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

    A lightweight Japanese plant oil that hydrates and seals in moisture without feeling heavy.

    Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Tsubaki Oil
    See the dossier →
  • Yuzu Seed Extract

    Citrus Junos Seed Extract

    A citrus-derived antioxidant from Japan that brightens and protects the skin surface.

    Serum
    Anecdotal evidence· Yuzu
    See the dossier →
  • Fermented Soy

    Glycine Soja Ferment

    Fermented soy compounds that fight environmental damage from sun and pollution while gradually supporting skin firmness.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Soy Ferment· Nattokinase
    See the dossier →
  • Hatomugi

    Coix Lacryma-Jobi Seed Extract

    A traditional Japanese botanical (Job's tears) that hydrates and calms irritated skin.

    Toner · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Job’s Tears· Coix Seed
    See the dossier →
  • Glycerin

    Glycerin

    A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

    Moisturizer · Toner
    Moderate evidence· Glycerol· Glycerine
    See the dossier →
  • Aloe Vera

    Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

    Calms irritation and adds light hydration. The classic for sunburned or reactive skin.

    Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Aloe
    See the dossier →
  • Vitamin E

    Tocopherol

    A workhorse antioxidant that defends your skin from daily oxidative damage. Pairs especially well with vitamin C, and it's in nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Tocopherol· Alpha-Tocopherol
    See the dossier →
  • Caffeine

    Caffeine

    Tightens and brightens the under-eye area, reducing the look of puffiness by constricting tiny blood vessels. Best deployed in eye creams.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· 1,3,7-Trimethylxanthine
    See the dossier →
  • Ferulic Acid

    Ferulic Acid

    Boosts the effectiveness of vitamin C and vitamin E when layered together. The reason a good morning antioxidant serum stays potent through the day.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· trans-Ferulic Acid
    See the dossier →
  • Licorice Root

    Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

    A gentle Asian-skincare brightener derived from licorice root. Fades dark spots and calms redness, and it's a pregnancy-safe alternative to stronger fade ingredients.

    Serum · Toner
    Moderate evidence· Glabridin· Licorice Extract
    See the dossier →
  • Copper Peptides

    Copper Tripeptide-1

    A signal peptide that tells your skin to make more collagen and elastin. Quiet but consistent firmness support over months of daily use.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· GHK-Cu· Glycyl-Histidyl-Lysine Copper
    See the dossier →
  • Glutathione

    Glutathione

    A "master antioxidant" your body already makes. In skincare it gently lightens overall tone and helps fade pigmentation when used consistently over months.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· GSH· L-Glutathione
    See the dossier →
  • Resveratrol

    Resveratrol

    A grape-derived antioxidant that defends skin from daily oxidative damage and helps even out tone. Often paired with vitamins C and E in nighttime serums.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· trans-Resveratrol· 3,5,4'-Trihydroxystilbene
    See the dossier →
  • Coenzyme Q10

    Ubiquinone

    A naturally-occurring antioxidant your skin loses as you age. Topical CoQ10 restores some of what time depletes, supporting energy production in skin cells and softening wrinkle depth.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· CoQ10· Ubiquinone
    See the dossier →
  • Argireline

    Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

    Sometimes called "topical Botox," it's a peptide that subtly reduces the depth of expression lines around the eyes and forehead when used daily over months. Mild effect, but real.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· Acetyl Hexapeptide-3· Argireline
    See the dossier →
  • EGCG (Green Tea)

    Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

    A polyphenol from green tea that calms UV-triggered redness and reinforces your sunscreen as a second line of antioxidant defense.

    SPF
    Serum · Moisturizer · Sunscreen
    Strong evidence· Epigallocatechin Gallate· Green Tea Extract
    See the dossier →
  • Sea Buckthorn Oil

    Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

    A vivid orange plant oil packed with omega-7. Calms reactive, atopic-prone skin and helps refill the lipid barrier without feeling heavy.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Hippophae Oil· Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil
    See the dossier →
  • N-Acetylglucosamine

    Acetyl Glucosamine

    A gentle brightener that fades dark spots while quietly boosting hydration. Pairs especially well with niacinamide.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· NAG· N-Acetyl Glucosamine
    See the dossier →
  • Polyglutamic Acid

    Polyglutamic Acid

    A hydrator often pitched as "stronger than hyaluronic acid." It sits on the surface, locks water in, and helps your skin make more of its own moisturizers over time.

    Serum · Moisturizer · Toner
    Moderate evidence· PGA· Poly-Gamma-Glutamic Acid
    See the dossier →
  • Ectoin

    Ectoin

    A desert-bacteria-derived molecule that wraps skin cells in a protective water layer. Genuinely helpful for irritated, atopic-prone, or post-procedure skin.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Ectoine
    See the dossier →
  • Ergothioneine

    Ergothioneine

    A potent antioxidant from mushrooms that your skin actively pulls into cells. Quietly defends against UV damage from the inside of the cell, not just the surface.

    Serum
    Anecdotal evidence· EGT· L-Ergothioneine
    See the dossier →
  • Hexylresorcinol

    4-Hexylresorcinol

    A potent dark-spot fader long favored by dermatologists. Pairs strongly with niacinamide for stubborn discoloration without the irritation of hydroquinone.

    Serum · Spot treatment
    Moderate evidence· 4-Hexylresorcinol· 4-HR
    See the dossier →
  • Tea Tree Oil

    Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

    A natural acne spot-treatment that kills the bacteria behind red, painful pimples. Slower than benzoyl peroxide but with fewer side effects when used at 5%.

    Spot treatment · Cleanser
    Moderate evidence· Melaleuca Oil· TTO
    See the dossier →
  • Urea

    Urea

    A small molecule your skin already makes. Low concentrations deeply hydrate dry skin; higher concentrations soften thick, scaly patches. A workhorse for eczema and ichthyosis.

    Moisturizer
    Strong evidence· Carbamide
    See the dossier →
  • Snow Mushroom

    Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract

    Often pitched as the gentler cousin of hyaluronic acid. It holds water in the skin, fades less quickly in dry air, and quietly buffers against UV oxidative stress.

    Serum · Moisturizer · Toner
    Moderate evidence· Tremella· Silver Ear Mushroom
    See the dossier →
  • Polypodium Leucotomos

    Polypodium Leucotomos Leaf Extract

    A supplement (and topical) that adds an internal layer of sun protection on top of your sunscreen, popular for melasma and easily-burned skin. Not a sunscreen replacement, but a real adjunct.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· Fernblock· PLE
    See the dossier →
  • Bisabolol

    Bisabolol

    The "calm-down" molecule in many sensitive-skin formulas. Reduces redness and stinging without bleaching your barrier, and plays nicely on top of retinoids or exfoliating acids.

    Serum · Moisturizer · Spot treatment
    Moderate evidence· Alpha-Bisabolol· Levomenol
    See the dossier →
  • Idebenone

    Idebenone

    A lab-engineered version of CoQ10 that gets deeper into skin cells. Modest visible improvements over months. Comparison studies place it below vitamin-C-plus-ferulic combos, but it's useful when C is poorly tolerated.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
    See the dossier →
  • Rosehip Oil

    Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

    A dry oil that absorbs quickly and brings a tiny trickle of vitamin-A-like activity. Good for scarring, post-acne marks, and barrier rebuild without feeling greasy.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Rose Hip Seed Oil· Rosa Canina Oil
    See the dossier →
  • Marula Oil

    Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

    A rich, fast-absorbing oil for very dry or mature skin. Clinically tested as gentle on sensitive complexions, with mild brightening from its polyphenols.

    Moisturizer
    Anecdotal evidence· Marula Seed Oil
    See the dossier →
  • Calendula

    Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

    A botanical with real clinical wins for irritated, post-procedure, or healing skin, including faster cesarean-wound closure in a randomized trial. Gentle enough for diaper rash; useful for eczema flares.

    Moisturizer · Spot treatment
    Moderate evidence· Marigold· Calendula Officinalis
    See the dossier →
  • Chamomile

    Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract

    The classic "tea-bag-on-puffy-eyes" botanical. Calms angry skin via the same anti-inflammatory pathways psoriasis drugs target, just gentler. Good for reactive or rosacea-prone complexions.

    Serum · Moisturizer · Toner
    Moderate evidence· Matricaria· German Chamomile
    See the dossier →
  • Sodium PCA

    Sodium PCA

    Replenishes one of the actual humectant molecules your own skin makes. Levels drop in eczema and with age, so topping it up genuinely helps dry, dehydrated, or atopic-prone skin feel less tight.

    Serum · Moisturizer · Toner
    Moderate evidence· Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate· Sodium L-Pyroglutamate
    See the dossier →
  • Reishi Mushroom

    Ganoderma Lucidum (Mushroom) Extract

    An "adaptogen" mushroom that helps skin cells handle stress at the gene level. Early-stage evidence but mechanistically interesting for anti-aging routines layered with vitamin C or peptides.

    Serum · Toner
    Anecdotal evidence· Lingzhi· Ganoderma Lucidum
    See the dossier →
  • Lactobionic Acid

    Lactobionic Acid

    A "next-gen AHA" that exfoliates and hydrates at the same time, with much less stinging than glycolic. Sensitive-skin or rosacea-prone users tolerate it where stronger acids fail.

    Serum · Toner · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· LBA
    See the dossier →
  • Lactobacillus Ferment

    Lactobacillus Ferment

    A "postbiotic" (dead probiotic bits) that talks to your skin microbiome without adding live bugs. Patches up a leaky barrier and is friendly even on very reactive skin.

    Serum · Toner · Moisturizer
    Anecdotal evidence· Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate· Probiotic Lysate
    See the dossier →
  • Hydrolyzed Collagen

    Hydrolyzed Collagen

    The protein your skin loses with age, broken down small enough to absorb. Multiple meta-analyses of RCTs show measurable wins in wrinkles, elasticity, and hydration after ~12 weeks. Most evidence is oral, but topical helps surface hydration too.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Collagen Peptides· Marine Collagen
    See the dossier →
  • Polydeoxyribonucleotide

    Polydeoxyribonucleotide

    The "salmon DNA" trending in K-beauty and Korean clinics. Strong wound-healing pedigree translated into anti-aging. Speeds repair after lasers/microneedling, smooths fine lines, and brightens. Often layered with vitamin C and niacinamide. Worth knowing: salmon- or trout-derived PDRN has much stronger clinical evidence than plant ("phyto") PDRN, and the dose matters more than the marketing — favor products that list a real PDRN concentration (roughly 1,000+ ppm) over big headline numbers on plant-derived versions.

    Serum · Spot treatment
    Moderate evidence· PDRN· Salmon DNA
    See the dossier →
  • Argan Oil

    Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

    The Moroccan kitchen-staple oil with real cosmetic data behind it. Daily use measurably improves skin elasticity in postmenopausal women. Good for dry, mature, or barrier-compromised skin without feeling greasy.

    Moisturizer · Serum
    Moderate evidence· Moroccan Argan Oil· Argan
    See the dossier →
  • Jojoba Oil

    Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

    Technically a wax that masquerades as oil, molecularly closer to your own sebum than any other plant oil. Hydrates without clogging pores, calms inflammation, and plays well in acne-prone and sensitive routines.

    Moisturizer · Cleanser · Serum
    Moderate evidence· Jojoba
    See the dossier →
  • Tamanu Oil

    Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil

    A traditional Polynesian "first-aid oil" with real cell-culture and animal data for wound repair and scar fading. Good as a spot treatment on healing blemishes, post-procedure skin, or stubborn dry patches.

    Moisturizer · Spot treatment · Serum
    Anecdotal evidence· Calophyllum· Foraha
    See the dossier →
  • Tocotrienol

    Tocotrienols

    Vitamin E's more potent cousin, better at chasing down free radicals and shielding skin from UV-driven aging. A systematic review concluded it protects against inflammation, UV damage, and pigmentation; pairs naturally with vitamin C.

    SPF
    Serum · Moisturizer · Sunscreen
    Moderate evidence· Tocotrienol-Rich Fraction· TRF
    See the dossier →
  • Hypochlorous Acid

    Hypochlorous Acid

    A "molecule your own immune cells make," now bottled. Kills surface bacteria without nuking the barrier, calms itch and redness in eczema, and gives compromised or post-procedure skin a clean reset, gentle enough to spray around eyes.

    Toner · Spot treatment · Cleanser
    Moderate evidence· HOCl· HOCL
    See the dossier →
  • Mulberry Extract

    Morus Alba Root Extract

    A "natural skin lightener" with actual clinical-trial backing for melasma. A placebo-controlled study showed real MASI improvement. Sits well alongside vitamin C, alpha-arbutin, or niacinamide in a brightening stack.

    Serum · Toner · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· White Mulberry· Morus Alba
    See the dossier →
  • Colloidal Oatmeal

    Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour

    A pharmacy-grade skin protectant proven to calm itch, redness, and dryness in eczema and other irritated skin. FDA recognised it as a Category I skin protectant in 2003, and 1% creams beat vehicle in mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis trials.

    Moisturizer · Cleanser
    Strong evidence· Colloidal Oatmeal· Oat Flour
    See the dossier →
  • Petrolatum

    Petrolatum

    The gold-standard occlusive moisturiser. Locks water into damaged or compromised skin better than anything else, accelerates barrier repair, and (in newer research) actively boosts your skin's own antimicrobial defences. Cheap, non-allergenic, dermatologist-recommended for eczema, post-procedure care, and slugging.

    Moisturizer
    Strong evidence· White Petrolatum· Vaseline
    See the dossier →
  • Dimethicone

    Dimethicone

    A silicone that sits on your skin as an invisible, non-greasy shield. Reduces water loss, protects against irritants (think soap, friction, incontinence), and is FDA-recognised as a skin protectant from 1-30%. The reason your favourite primer feels silky and your barrier cream actually works under makeup.

    Moisturizer · Serum
    Strong evidence· Polydimethylsiloxane· PDMS
    See the dossier →
  • Shea Butter

    Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

    A rich, naturally occlusive plant butter from the African karite tree. Calms eczema-prone skin, refills the lipid barrier, and (in randomized trials) is acceptable and effective enough that three quarters of pediatric AD patients use it as a steroid-sparing emollient.

    Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Shea Butter· Karite Butter
    See the dossier →
  • Cholesterol

    Cholesterol

    The third (and most often missing) lipid in the skin barrier triumvirate. Without it, even ceramide-heavy creams underperform. Topping it up is what lets compromised, aged, or eczema-prone skin actually rebuild its waterproof layer.

    Moisturizer · Serum
    Strong evidence· Cholesterin
    See the dossier →
  • Linoleic Acid

    Linoleic Acid

    An essential fatty acid your sebum runs short on if you're acne-prone, and topping it up topically literally shrinks clogged pores. Also rebuilds the lipid mortar between skin cells. Found concentrated in safflower, hemp, and rosehip oils.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Free Linoleic Acid· Omega-6 Fatty Acid
    See the dossier →
  • Lanolin

    Lanolin

    Sheep-derived wax esters that mirror the molecules in your own skin lipids. Heals cracked nipples, dry hands, and damaged lips with multiple positive RCTs behind it. Note: classic but real allergen, so patch-test if you have a wool/Balsam-of-Peru history.

    Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Wool Wax· Wool Grease
    See the dossier →
  • Beeswax

    Cera Alba

    A wax film former that quietly does what petrolatum does (slows water loss and shields chapped skin) without feeling slick. Most evidence comes from honey/beeswax/olive-oil cerates that beat vehicle in eczema and psoriasis trials. CIR-affirmed safe.

    Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Cera Alba· Beeswax
    See the dossier →
  • Honey

    Mel

    An ancient antimicrobial that has graduated into modern wound clinics. Cochrane and meta-analytic evidence shows it heals partial-thickness burns ~4-5 days faster than conventional dressings; smaller dermatology trials show it calms atopic dermatitis flares without irritation.

    Moisturizer · Cleanser · Spot treatment
    Moderate evidence· Mel· Honey
    See the dossier →
  • Zinc Pyrithione

    Zinc Pyrithione

    The active in classic anti-dandruff and anti-Malassezia formulas. RCTs show it clears severe dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis on par with ketoconazole 2%; also useful in fungal acne and scalp folliculitis. The reason your medicated body wash actually works.

    Cleanser · Spot treatment
    Strong evidence· Pyrithione Zinc· ZPT
    See the dossier →
  • Phytic Acid

    Phytic Acid

    A plant-derived acid that blocks the enzyme your skin uses to make pigment, fading dark spots and post-acne marks. Clinical trials show it measurably reduces hyperpigmentation and improves skin luminosity, with significantly less irritation than stronger AHAs. A good option for sensitive skin that still wants a brightening acid.

    Serum · Spot treatment
    Moderate evidence· IP-6· Inositol Hexaphosphate
    See the dossier →
  • Tartaric Acid

    Tartaric Acid

    A gentler grape-derived AHA that exfoliates and helps multi-acid formulas stay at the right pH to work. Less studied than glycolic or lactic acid as a standalone, but well-tolerated in combination peels, and the antioxidant side effect is a genuine bonus.

    Serum · Toner
    Anecdotal evidence· L-Tartaric Acid· Wine Acid
    See the dossier →
  • Avobenzone

    Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

    The most widely used chemical UVA filter in Western sunscreens, critical for blocking the longer wavelengths that drive photoaging, pigmentation, and deeper DNA damage. Always look for it paired with a photostabiliser such as octocrylene so it doesn't degrade and leave you unprotected mid-day.

    SPF
    Sunscreen
    Moderate evidence· Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane· Parsol 1789
    See the dossier →
  • Octinoxate

    Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

    The UVB workhorse behind most chemical sunscreens: effective, well-tolerated, and found in over 90% of chemical-filter formulas in the US. Important caveat: it covers UVB only, so it always needs a UVA partner (typically avobenzone). Also banned in Hawaii and reef-sensitive areas due to coral toxicity, so check the label if environmental impact matters to you.

    SPF
    Sunscreen
    Moderate evidence· Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate· Octyl Methoxycinnamate
    See the dossier →
  • Witch Hazel

    Hamamelis Virginiana Extract

    A botanical astringent backed by real anti-inflammatory evidence. Extracts genuinely calm acne-related inflammation by blocking the same NF-κB pathway that redness-causing cytokines depend on. Honest caveat: most shelf-ready witch hazel toners are distilled water with trace tannin; look for "Hamamelis virginiana extract" rather than "hamamelis water" on the label if you want the active fraction.

    Toner · Cleanser
    Anecdotal evidence· Hamamelis Virginiana· Hamamelis Water
    See the dossier →
  • Citric Acid

    Citric Acid

    A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.

    Toner · Serum
    Anecdotal evidence· E330· Anhydrous Citric Acid
    See the dossier →
  • Lauric Acid

    Lauric Acid

    A fatty acid from coconut oil with striking antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria. In lab tests it outperforms benzoyl peroxide at lower concentrations. The research is promising but limited to in vitro and animal models; no large human RCT yet. Worth noting: the concentrations used in the studies are far higher than what arrives via a coconut-oil facial oil, so look for formulas that list it as a dedicated active if you want the therapeutic dose.

    Spot treatment · Cleanser
    Anecdotal evidence· Dodecanoic Acid· C12 Fatty Acid
    See the dossier →
  • Hydrocolloid

    Hydrocolloid

    A sticker you put over a spot overnight. It pulls out the gunk and excess oil and — just as importantly — stops you picking at it, which is half the battle with scarring. Works best on whiteheads that have come to a head, but the no-touching benefit helps any spot you'd otherwise pick at.

    Spot treatment
    Anecdotal evidence· Pimple patch· Acne patch
    See the dossier →
  • NMN

    Nicotinamide Mononucleotide

    The "longevity molecule" of cellular skincare. It boosts NAD+ levels directly, helping your skin cells behave like younger ones. Clinical trials show it improves skin elasticity and barrier strength by activating cellular repair genes. A top pick for age-reversal routines.

    Serum
    Anecdotal evidence· NAD+ Precursor· B-NMN
    See the dossier →
  • Protease

    Protease

    A gentle alternative to acids. It uses enzymes to "eat" the glue holding dead skin cells together, leaving skin smooth without the stinging or redness of AHAs. Ideal for sensitive skin that needs surface smoothing without the downtime.

    Toner · Cleanser
    Moderate evidence· Enzymatic Exfoliant· Subtilisin
    See the dossier →
  • Alpha-Lipoic Acid

    Thioctic Acid

    A "universal antioxidant" that protects both the oily and watery parts of your skin. It's unique because it can recycle your Vitamin C and E, making them last longer. It also prevents "sugar-sag" (glycation) and reduces fine lines.

    Serum
    Moderate evidence· ALA· Thioctic Acid
    See the dossier →
  • Panax Ginseng

    Panax Ginseng Root Extract

    A staple in Hanbang (traditional Korean medicine) skincare. It's packed with antioxidants and ginsenosides that help firm the skin, boost circulation, and defend against environmental aging.

    Toner · Serum · Moisturizer
    Strong evidence· Korean Ginseng· Ginsenosides
    See the dossier →
  • Plant Exosomes

    Centella Asiatica Induced Extracellular Vesicles

    Highly biocompatible "cellular messengers" that literally tell your skin cells to stop panicking and start repairing. Excellent for severe redness and compromised barriers.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Anecdotal evidence· Cica Exosomes· Plant-derived Extracellular Vesicles
    See the dossier →
  • Silica Spicules

    Hydrolyzed Sponge

    Liquid microneedling in a bottle. It causes a temporary prickly sensation but creates tiny pathways in your skin so all your other expensive serums can actually penetrate deeper.

    Serum
    Anecdotal evidence· Sponge Spicules· Micro-needles
    See the dossier →
  • Yam Root Extract

    Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract

    The ultimate vegan alternative to snail mucin. It provides the same deeply hydrating, stretchy texture but is derived entirely from wild yam roots. Very soothing for sensitive skin.

    Cleanser · Toner · Moisturizer
    Anecdotal evidence· Phyto-mucin· Wild Yam Root Extract
    See the dossier →
  • NAD+

    Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide

    The ultimate "cell recharger." It boosts your skin's cellular energy to speed up repair and protect against aging at the DNA level. It's the new high-tech standard for longevity skincare.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Anecdotal evidence· Coenzyme I· NAD Plus
    See the dossier →
  • Thiamidol

    Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol

    A standout dark-spot fader. It blocks the human pigment-making enzyme more strongly than most brighteners, so with daily use it visibly lightens melasma, sun spots, and post-acne marks over a few weeks. Pairs well with sunscreen and niacinamide.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol· Thiamidol
    See the dossier →
  • Retinyl Retinoate

    Retinyl Retinoate

    A gentler-but-effective next-generation retinoid popular in Korean anti-aging serums. In trials it smoothed fine lines and crow's-feet better than plain retinol, with less stinging — a good step up if regular retinol is too harsh. Use at night and always wear SPF.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· Retinyl Retinoate
    See the dossier →
  • Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

    Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

    The retinol-without-the-irritation active marketed as Granactive Retinoid. It works on fine lines and acne-prone texture with far less flaking than prescription-style retinoids, which makes it beginner-friendly. Use at night, with daytime SPF.

    Serum · Moisturizer
    Moderate evidence· HPR· Granactive Retinoid
    See the dossier →
  • Stem Cell Exosomes

    Mesenchymal Stem Cell Exosomes

    The exosome-facial active from Korean clinics. The strongest evidence is as a booster paired with microneedling or laser — where it improved wrinkles and tone — rather than as a stand-alone leave-on. Promising but still early; treat it as a clinic-adjacent extra, not a proven daily essential.

    Serum
    Anecdotal evidence· Exosomes· MSC Exosomes
    See the dossier →
  • Melatonin

    Melatonin

    The overnight-repair antioxidant showing up in night creams. Small trials found melatonin creams improved texture, fine wrinkles, and tone with nightly use. A nice antioxidant layer for PM routines; pair with morning SPF for daytime protection.

    Moisturizer · Serum
    Moderate evidence· N-acetyl-5-methoxytryptamine
    See the dossier →
  • Rice Ferment Filtrate

    Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate

    The rice-water glow trend behind viral rice toners and essences. Lab and animal studies point to brightening and hydration, but human studies are still thin — so think of it as a pleasant, low-risk hydrator with promising early evidence rather than a proven brightener.

    Toner · Serum
    Anecdotal evidence· Rice Ferment· Fermented Rice
    See the dossier →

Looking for the research behind a claim?

Every ingredient in this list traces back to peer-reviewed sources. See our methodology for how we evaluate, cite, and verify research from PubMed, the Korean Citation Index, J-Stage, and the MFDS regulatory record.