Calming Cicatree Micellar Cleansing Oil
What it's good for
Key actives from our research database. Click any to read the full evidence dossier.
Another cica (centella) compound. This one specifically pushes collagen production, so the benefit is more about firmness than calming.
Good for: Anti-aging, Anti-inflammatory
Also called "cica," it calms redness, repairs the skin barrier, and speeds up recovery. The go-to for irritated or reactive skin.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory, Barrier repair
Refills the natural barrier between your skin cells. Locks moisture in, keeps irritants out, calms dry or damaged skin.
Good for: Barrier repair
The third (and most often missing) lipid in the skin barrier triumvirate. Without it, even ceramide-heavy creams underperform. Topping it up is what lets compromised, aged, or eczema-prone skin actually rebuild its waterproof layer.
Good for: Barrier repair
A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.
Good for: Exfoliating, Antioxidant
A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.
Good for: Hydrating
A calming K-beauty botanical that's also antibacterial, so it pairs well for acne-prone, sensitive skin.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory, Anti-acne
A pure hydrator that holds water in your skin. Makes skin look plumper and smoother almost immediately.
Good for: Hydrating
A purified compound from the cica (centella) plant, laser-focused on calming inflammation and speeding up how fast skin recovers.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory, Barrier repair
A Korean botanical that calms angry, reactive skin. Especially soothing during flare-ups.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory
Pro-vitamin B5. Deeply hydrates and helps repair the skin barrier, calming dry or compromised skin.
Good for: Hydrating, Barrier repair
The mildest exfoliating acid. Refines texture and hydrates at the same time, and it's sensitive-skin friendly.
Good for: Exfoliating, Hydrating
Goes into your pores and dissolves the oil and dead skin clogging them. Best for blackheads, whiteheads, and oily, acne-prone skin.
Good for: Anti-acne, Exfoliating
Replenishes one of the actual humectant molecules your own skin makes. Levels drop in eczema and with age, so topping it up genuinely helps dry, dehydrated, or atopic-prone skin feel less tight.
Good for: Hydrating, Barrier repair
Evidence behind the ingredients
Real citations from our research database, one per tracked active in this product. Click any ingredient name to read its full evidence dossier.
Another cica (centella) compound. This one specifically pushes collagen production, so the benefit is more about firmness than calming.
Bandopadhyay S et al., Therapeutic properties and pharmacological activities of asiaticoside and madecassoside: A review, Journal of Cellular and Molecular Medicine 2023;27(5):593-608 — asiaticoside and madecassoside have wound healing, anti-inflammatory, and dermatological potential
Park KS, Pharmacological Effects of Centella asiatica on Skin Diseases: Evidence and Possible Mechanisms, Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine 2021;2021:5462633 — documents asiaticoside efficacy across wound healing, scarring and inflammatory dermatoses
Peng Q et al., Transdermal characteristics and mechanism of asiaticoside nanoemulsions and asiaticoside nanoemulsions-based gels, Zhongguo Zhong Yao Za Zhi (China Journal of Chinese Materia Medica) 2018;43(9):1857-1863 — asiaticoside nanoemulsions achieved 6-7x greater drug permeation and 5-6x greater skin deposition vs commercial cream
Also called "cica," it calms redness, repairs the skin barrier, and speeds up recovery. The go-to for irritated or reactive skin.
Hur N et al., A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial Assessing the Effects of Oral Centella asiatica Extract on Skin Aging-Related Parameters in Middle-Aged Korean Women, Nutrients 2026
Borowicz KK et al., Geroprotective Potential of Centella asiatica: Modulation of Cellular Aging, Nutrients 2026
Witkowska K et al., Topical Application of Centella asiatica in Wound Healing: Recent Insights into Mechanisms and Clinical Efficacy, Pharmaceutics 2024;16(10):1252 — modern hydrogel and nanostructured Centella delivery systems accelerate wound healing across wound types
Refills the natural barrier between your skin cells. Locks moisture in, keeps irritants out, calms dry or damaged skin.
Andrew PV et al., Topical supplementation with physiological lipids rebalances the stratum corneum ceramide profile and strengthens skin barrier function in adults predisposed to atopic dermatitis, British Journal of Dermatology 2025;193(4):729-740 — physiological-lipid emulsion raised SC ceramide NP/AP and improved barrier function vs control
Nugroho WT, Sawitri, Astindari, Utomo B, Listiawan MY, Ervianti E, Astari L. The Efficacy of Moisturisers Containing Ceramide Compared with Other Moisturisers in the Management of Atopic Dermatitis: A Systematic Literature Review and Meta-Analysis. Indian J Dermatol. 2023;68(1):53-58. — Meta-analysis of 5 studies found ceramide-containing moisturisers produced significantly greater improvement in SCORAD compared with non-ceramide moisturisers in atopic dermatitis.
Shindo S et al., Effects of a moisturizer containing pseudo-ceramide and a eucalyptus extract on sweating function in adult atopic dermatitis: a double-blind, randomized, controlled left-right comparison clinical trial, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2022;21(10):4503-4509 — pseudo-ceramide + eucalyptus moisturizer restored sweating function and barrier in AD adults
+−11 more ingredients
The third (and most often missing) lipid in the skin barrier triumvirate. Without it, even ceramide-heavy creams underperform. Topping it up is what lets compromised, aged, or eczema-prone skin actually rebuild its waterproof layer.
Sugarman JL, Parish LC. Efficacy of a lipid-based barrier repair formulation in moderate-to-severe pediatric atopic dermatitis. J Drugs Dermatol. 2009;8(12):1106-1111. — ceramide/cholesterol/fatty-acid triple-lipid formulation reduced disease severity, pruritus and improved sleep at days 14 and 28.
Chamlin SL, Kao J, Frieden IJ, Sheu MY, Fowler AJ, Fluhr JW, Williams ML, Elias PM. Ceramide-dominant barrier repair lipids alleviate childhood atopic dermatitis: changes in barrier function provide a sensitive indicator of disease activity. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;47(2):198-208. — physiologic ceramide:cholesterol:fatty-acid lipid mixture; SCORAD improved significantly in 22 of 24 patients.
Zettersten EM, Ghadially R, Feingold KR, Crumrine D, Elias PM. Optimal ratios of topical stratum corneum lipids improve barrier recovery in chronologically aged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1997;37(3 Pt 1):403-408.
A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.
Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. 2018;23(4):863.
Yamamoto Y, Uede K, Yonei N, Kishioka A, Ohtani T, Furukawa F. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the human skin of Japanese subjects: the rationale for chemical peeling. Journal of Dermatology. 2006 Jan;33(1):16-22. — Clinical-mechanistic study in Japanese subjects demonstrating AHA (including citric acid class) keratolytic and epidermal renewal effects as rationale for chemical peeling.
Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Lakkakorpi J, et al. Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatologic Surgery. 1997 Aug;23(8):689-694. — Mechanistic study showing topical citric acid increased viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans in sun-damaged skin, similar to glycolic acid and retinoic acid.
A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.
Danby SG et al., Different types of emollient cream exhibit diverse physiological effects on the skin barrier in adults with atopic dermatitis, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 2022;47(6):1154-1164 — glycerol+urea emollient delivered superior barrier-strengthening and irritant protection
Youssef R et al., Glycerol 85% efficacy on atopic skin and its microbiome: a randomized controlled trial, Journal of Dermatological Treatment 2021;32(7):730-736 — topical glycerol 85% RCT on atopic skin
Evans NJ et al., Human axillary skin condition is improved following incorporation of glycerol into the stratum corneum from an antiperspirant formulation, Archives of Dermatological Research 2017;309(9):739-748 — 4% glycerol penetrated axillary SC, reduced irritation, improved hydration
A calming K-beauty botanical that's also antibacterial, so it pairs well for acne-prone, sensitive skin.
Song Z et al., Inhibition of LPS-Induced Skin Inflammatory Response and Barrier Damage via MAPK/NF-kB Signaling Pathway by Houttuynia cordata Thunb Fermentation Broth, Foods 2024
Kwon N et al., Protective Effects of Fermented Houttuynia cordata Against UVA and H2O2-Induced Oxidative Stress in Human Skin Keratinocytes, Applied Biochemistry and Biotechnology 2023;195(5):3027-3046 — Korean-authored; fermented H. cordata showed antioxidant and anti-inflammatory protection against UVA/H2O2 stress
Rafiq S et al., Pharmacological Effects of Houttuynia cordata Thunb (H. cordata): A Comprehensive Review, Pharmaceuticals (Basel) 2022
A pure hydrator that holds water in your skin. Makes skin look plumper and smoother almost immediately.
Karabat MU, Tuncer MC. Effects of hyaluronic acid on skin at the cellular level: a systematic review. Rev Assoc Med Bras. 2025;71(8):e20250208. — Systematic review of 45 studies found low-molecular-weight HA stimulates keratinocyte proliferation and migration while high-molecular-weight HA drives skin hydration, supporting topical HA as an effective skin-hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredient.
Bravo B et al., Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence, Dermatology and Therapy 2022;12(12):2657-2680 — HA-based cosmeceuticals reliably improve hydration and signs of skin aging
Lee SG et al., Hyaluronan Oligosaccharides Improve Rosacea-Like Phenotype through Anti-Inflammatory and Epidermal Barrier-Improving Effects, Annals of Dermatology 2020
A purified compound from the cica (centella) plant, laser-focused on calming inflammation and speeding up how fast skin recovers.
Liu L et al., Madecassoside Attenuated UVB Irradiation-Induced Skin Ferroptosis by Targeting POR, Phytomedicine 2026
Bandopadhyay S et al., Therapeutic properties and pharmacological activities of asiaticoside and madecassoside: A review, Journal of Cellular and Molecular Medicine 2023;27(5):593-608 — comprehensive review of wound-healing, anti-inflammatory and regenerative activity
Park KS, Pharmacological Effects of Centella asiatica on Skin Diseases: Evidence and Possible Mechanisms, Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine 2021;2021:5462633 — KR-authored review of triterpenes including madecassoside
A Korean botanical that calms angry, reactive skin. Especially soothing during flare-ups.
Wang Y et al., A review of the research progress on Artemisia argyi Folium: botany, phytochemistry, pharmacological activities, and clinical application, Naunyn-Schmiedeberg's Archives of Pharmacology 2024;397(10):7473-7500 — comprehensive review of 136 compounds; documented anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial topical use in eczema/dermatitis
Hirano A et al. (Kyushu University, Furue lab), Antioxidant Artemisia princeps extract enhances the expression of filaggrin and loricrin via the AHR/OVOL1 pathway, International Journal of Molecular Sciences 2017;18(9):1948 — Japanese-authored mechanism study explaining how APE upregulates barrier proteins via AHR/OVOL1; no human efficacy trial yet
Lee JH et al., Topical Application of Eupatilin Ameliorates Atopic Dermatitis-Like Skin Lesions in NC/Nga Mice, Annals of Dermatology 2017;29(1):61-68 — Korean-authored study showing topical eupatilin (Artemisia flavonoid) reduced atopic-dermatitis-like lesions and inflammatory markers
Pro-vitamin B5. Deeply hydrates and helps repair the skin barrier, calming dry or compromised skin.
Gao Y et al., Evaluation of the Efficacy and Safety of a Panthenol-Enriched Mask for Skin Barrier Recovery After Facial Laser Treatment, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025;24(7):e70223 — double-blind RCT (n=60): panthenol mask decreased erythema, enhanced hydration, repaired barrier vs saline
Cho YS et al., Use of Dexpanthenol for Atopic Dermatitis-Benefits and Recommendations Based on Current Evidence, Journal of Clinical Medicine 2022;11(14):3943 — Korean-authored review; dexpanthenol improves barrier and reduces severity in mild-to-moderate AD
Heise R et al., Accelerated wound healing with a dexpanthenol-containing ointment after fractional ablative CO2 laser resurfacing of photo-damaged skin in a randomized prospective clinical trial, Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology 2019;38(3):274-278 — RCT: dexpanthenol significantly faster wound closure vs petroleum jelly post-laser
The mildest exfoliating acid. Refines texture and hydrates at the same time, and it's sensitive-skin friendly.
Peng Y et al., Comparison of Efficacy and Willingness to a 5% Gluconolactone-Based Topical Serum and Intense Pulsed Light in Mild Erythema of Rosacea: A Paired Control Study, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025;24(3):e70025 — 5% gluconolactone serum improved erythema and moisturization over 30 days
Kantikosum K et al., The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris, Clinical Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 2019;12:151-161 — gluconolactone cosmeceutical added benefit on top of adapalene without hindering treatment
Edison BL et al., A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen, Cutis 2004;73(2 Suppl):14-17 — 12-week PHA regimen matched AHA antiaging benefits with significantly less stinging/burning
Goes into your pores and dissolves the oil and dead skin clogging them. Best for blackheads, whiteheads, and oily, acne-prone skin.
Liu Y et al., Clinical Efficacy of a Salicylic Acid-Containing Gel on Acne Management and Skin Barrier Function: A 21-Day Prospective Study, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025;24(7):e70353 — salicylic acid gel reduced acne lesions, regulated sebum, improved hydration and barrier function
Ye R et al., 2% supramolecular salicylic acid hydrogel vs. adapalene gel in mild to moderate acne vulgaris: multicenter, randomized, evaluator-blind, parallel-controlled trial, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2024;23(6):2125-2134 — 2% SSA hydrogel was equally effective as adapalene gel for mild-to-moderate acne
Brumley C et al. Allergic contact dermatitis to salicylic acid: A case series of relevant sensitization. Contact Dermatitis. 2024;91(2):133-138. doi:10.1111/cod.14573 — Case series of 489 patch-tested patients (2020-2024): 21 positive reactions to salicylic acid. Documents that ACD to SA is likely underreported; testing at 5% concentration feasible.
Replenishes one of the actual humectant molecules your own skin makes. Levels drop in eczema and with age, so topping it up genuinely helps dry, dehydrated, or atopic-prone skin feel less tight.
Novel design of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine complex for targeted drug delivery to human stratum corneum, International Journal of Pharmaceutics 2025
Baldwin H, Del Rosso J, Going Beyond Ceramides in Moisturizers: The Role of Natural Moisturizing Factors, Journal of Drugs in Dermatology 2024 — review establishing PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) as a core skin natural moisturizing factor alongside amino acids, urea, lactate, and electrolytes; essential to barrier function and xerosis treatment
Li L et al., Association Between Skin Acid Mantle, Natural Moisturizing Factors, and Antibacterial Activity Against S. aureus in the Stratum Corneum, Clinical Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 2023 — PCA and urocanic acid as NMF components contribute to skin antibacterial defense; 1-unit pH drop = 68.1% S. aureus cell death
Sources: 10 clinical journals and regulatory databases across the US, EU, Korea, Japan, and China. Every entry points to a specific document. See methodology for the full list and what each outcome label means.
Layering conflicts
Ingredients in this product that can react with common actives. Avoid stacking unless noted.
- Retinolhigh
Retinol + salicylic acid can over-exfoliate and damage the barrier. Alternate nights.
- Tretinoinhigh
Tretinoin + salicylic acid — major irritation risk. Strict separation required.
- Glycolic Acidmedium
AHA + BHA stacking risks over-exfoliation. Use a pre-formulated AHA/BHA product or alternate days.
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