Amino Acid Peptide Ampoule Serum
What it's good for
Key actives from our research database. Click any to read the full evidence dossier.
A gentle smoother and skin-soother. Reduces flakiness and helps the surface look more even.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory, Hydrating
Another cica (centella) compound. This one specifically pushes collagen production, so the benefit is more about firmness than calming.
Good for: Anti-aging, Anti-inflammatory
A heavy-duty hydrator that also reduces irritation. Often called "better than hyaluronic acid" for sensitive skin.
Good for: Hydrating, Anti-inflammatory
Also called "cica," it calms redness, repairs the skin barrier, and speeds up recovery. The go-to for irritated or reactive skin.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory, Barrier repair
A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.
Good for: Exfoliating, Antioxidant
A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.
Good for: Hydrating
A pure hydrator that holds water in your skin. Makes skin look plumper and smoother almost immediately.
Good for: Hydrating
A Korean botanical that calms angry, reactive skin. Especially soothing during flare-ups.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory
Pro-vitamin B5. Deeply hydrates and helps repair the skin barrier, calming dry or compromised skin.
Good for: Hydrating, Barrier repair
A lightweight oil that mimics what your skin already makes. Softens and seals in hydration without feeling greasy.
Good for: Barrier repair, Hydrating
Evidence behind the ingredients
Real citations from our research database, one per tracked active in this product. Click any ingredient name to read its full evidence dossier.
A gentle smoother and skin-soother. Reduces flakiness and helps the surface look more even.
Xu Z et al., Efficacy and Safety of Topical Compound Heparin Sodium Allantoin Gel for the Treatment of Rosacea, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025;24(4):e70129 — RCT (n=82, 12 weeks): allantoin gel improved erythema and alleviated itching/burning vs traditional therapy
Tan C et al., The combination of allantoin, bisabolol, D-panthenol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate mitigates UVB-induced PGE2 synthesis by keratinocytes, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2024;46(5):691-701 — in vitro: allantoin combination reduced UVB-induced PGE2, IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, TNFα
Saucedo-Acuna RA et al. (Mexico), Characterization and In Vivo Assay of Allantoin-Enriched Pectin Hydrogel for the Treatment of Skin Wounds, International Journal of Molecular Sciences 2023;24(8):7377 — allantoin-pectin hydrogel reduced wound healing time by ~71% with complete closure at day 15 in rat model
Another cica (centella) compound. This one specifically pushes collagen production, so the benefit is more about firmness than calming.
Bandopadhyay S et al., Therapeutic properties and pharmacological activities of asiaticoside and madecassoside: A review, Journal of Cellular and Molecular Medicine 2023;27(5):593-608 — asiaticoside and madecassoside have wound healing, anti-inflammatory, and dermatological potential
Park KS, Pharmacological Effects of Centella asiatica on Skin Diseases: Evidence and Possible Mechanisms, Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine 2021;2021:5462633 — documents asiaticoside efficacy across wound healing, scarring and inflammatory dermatoses
Peng Q et al., Transdermal characteristics and mechanism of asiaticoside nanoemulsions and asiaticoside nanoemulsions-based gels, Zhongguo Zhong Yao Za Zhi (China Journal of Chinese Materia Medica) 2018;43(9):1857-1863 — asiaticoside nanoemulsions achieved 6-7x greater drug permeation and 5-6x greater skin deposition vs commercial cream
A heavy-duty hydrator that also reduces irritation. Often called "better than hyaluronic acid" for sensitive skin.
Feng X et al., Exploring the Properties and Application Potential of beta-Glucan in Skin Care, Food Science and Nutrition 2025;13(4):e70212 — review concludes beta-glucan exhibits antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, barrier repair, and moisturizing bioactivities
Kussie HC et al., Avenanthramide and beta-Glucan Therapeutics Accelerate Wound Healing Via Distinct and Nonoverlapping Mechanisms, Advances in Wound Care 2024;13(4):155-166 — in vivo: beta-glucan accelerated wound closure with increased angiogenesis
Cao Y et al., Improving the outcome of treating striae gravidarum by combined therapies using topical β-glucan and 1565-nm non-ablative fractional laser, Journal of Dermatology 2022;49(9):829-836 — RCT; topical beta-glucan twice daily for 12 weeks on stretch marks
+−7 more ingredients
Also called "cica," it calms redness, repairs the skin barrier, and speeds up recovery. The go-to for irritated or reactive skin.
Hur N et al., A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial Assessing the Effects of Oral Centella asiatica Extract on Skin Aging-Related Parameters in Middle-Aged Korean Women, Nutrients 2026
Borowicz KK et al., Geroprotective Potential of Centella asiatica: Modulation of Cellular Aging, Nutrients 2026
Witkowska K et al., Topical Application of Centella asiatica in Wound Healing: Recent Insights into Mechanisms and Clinical Efficacy, Pharmaceutics 2024;16(10):1252 — modern hydrogel and nanostructured Centella delivery systems accelerate wound healing across wound types
A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.
Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. 2018;23(4):863.
Yamamoto Y, Uede K, Yonei N, Kishioka A, Ohtani T, Furukawa F. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the human skin of Japanese subjects: the rationale for chemical peeling. Journal of Dermatology. 2006 Jan;33(1):16-22. — Clinical-mechanistic study in Japanese subjects demonstrating AHA (including citric acid class) keratolytic and epidermal renewal effects as rationale for chemical peeling.
Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Lakkakorpi J, et al. Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatologic Surgery. 1997 Aug;23(8):689-694. — Mechanistic study showing topical citric acid increased viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans in sun-damaged skin, similar to glycolic acid and retinoic acid.
A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.
Danby SG et al., Different types of emollient cream exhibit diverse physiological effects on the skin barrier in adults with atopic dermatitis, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 2022;47(6):1154-1164 — glycerol+urea emollient delivered superior barrier-strengthening and irritant protection
Youssef R et al., Glycerol 85% efficacy on atopic skin and its microbiome: a randomized controlled trial, Journal of Dermatological Treatment 2021;32(7):730-736 — topical glycerol 85% RCT on atopic skin
Evans NJ et al., Human axillary skin condition is improved following incorporation of glycerol into the stratum corneum from an antiperspirant formulation, Archives of Dermatological Research 2017;309(9):739-748 — 4% glycerol penetrated axillary SC, reduced irritation, improved hydration
A pure hydrator that holds water in your skin. Makes skin look plumper and smoother almost immediately.
Karabat MU, Tuncer MC. Effects of hyaluronic acid on skin at the cellular level: a systematic review. Rev Assoc Med Bras. 2025;71(8):e20250208. — Systematic review of 45 studies found low-molecular-weight HA stimulates keratinocyte proliferation and migration while high-molecular-weight HA drives skin hydration, supporting topical HA as an effective skin-hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredient.
Bravo B et al., Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence, Dermatology and Therapy 2022;12(12):2657-2680 — HA-based cosmeceuticals reliably improve hydration and signs of skin aging
Lee SG et al., Hyaluronan Oligosaccharides Improve Rosacea-Like Phenotype through Anti-Inflammatory and Epidermal Barrier-Improving Effects, Annals of Dermatology 2020
A Korean botanical that calms angry, reactive skin. Especially soothing during flare-ups.
Wang Y et al., A review of the research progress on Artemisia argyi Folium: botany, phytochemistry, pharmacological activities, and clinical application, Naunyn-Schmiedeberg's Archives of Pharmacology 2024;397(10):7473-7500 — comprehensive review of 136 compounds; documented anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial topical use in eczema/dermatitis
Hirano A et al. (Kyushu University, Furue lab), Antioxidant Artemisia princeps extract enhances the expression of filaggrin and loricrin via the AHR/OVOL1 pathway, International Journal of Molecular Sciences 2017;18(9):1948 — Japanese-authored mechanism study explaining how APE upregulates barrier proteins via AHR/OVOL1; no human efficacy trial yet
Lee JH et al., Topical Application of Eupatilin Ameliorates Atopic Dermatitis-Like Skin Lesions in NC/Nga Mice, Annals of Dermatology 2017;29(1):61-68 — Korean-authored study showing topical eupatilin (Artemisia flavonoid) reduced atopic-dermatitis-like lesions and inflammatory markers
Pro-vitamin B5. Deeply hydrates and helps repair the skin barrier, calming dry or compromised skin.
Gao Y et al., Evaluation of the Efficacy and Safety of a Panthenol-Enriched Mask for Skin Barrier Recovery After Facial Laser Treatment, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025;24(7):e70223 — double-blind RCT (n=60): panthenol mask decreased erythema, enhanced hydration, repaired barrier vs saline
Cho YS et al., Use of Dexpanthenol for Atopic Dermatitis-Benefits and Recommendations Based on Current Evidence, Journal of Clinical Medicine 2022;11(14):3943 — Korean-authored review; dexpanthenol improves barrier and reduces severity in mild-to-moderate AD
Heise R et al., Accelerated wound healing with a dexpanthenol-containing ointment after fractional ablative CO2 laser resurfacing of photo-damaged skin in a randomized prospective clinical trial, Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology 2019;38(3):274-278 — RCT: dexpanthenol significantly faster wound closure vs petroleum jelly post-laser
A lightweight oil that mimics what your skin already makes. Softens and seals in hydration without feeling greasy.
Wolosik K et al., Squalane as a Promising Agent Protecting UV-Induced Inhibition of Collagen Biosynthesis and Wound Healing in Human Dermal Fibroblast, Molecules 2025;30(9):1964 — low-dose squalane (0.005-0.015%) restored collagen biosynthesis and wound healing in UVA-exposed human dermal fibroblasts
Morgan AB et al., Explicating the multifunctional roles of tocotrienol and squalene in promoting skin health, Skin Health and Disease 2024;4(5):e448 — squalene/squalane promotes skin health via antioxidant, hydrating, emollient, anti-inflammatory mechanisms
Fiume M et al., Safety Assessment of Squalane and Squalene as Used in Cosmetics, International Journal of Toxicology 2023;42(3_suppl):107S-109S — CIR expert-panel assessment concluding squalane is safe as a cosmetic ingredient
Sources: 10 clinical journals and regulatory databases across the US, EU, Korea, Japan, and China. Every entry points to a specific document. See methodology for the full list and what each outcome label means.
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