Ultimate Collagen Serum 10X
What it's good for
Key actives from our research database. Click any to read the full evidence dossier.
Calms irritation and adds light hydration. The classic for sunburned or reactive skin.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory, Hydrating
The "calm-down" molecule in many sensitive-skin formulas. Reduces redness and stinging without bleaching your barrier, and plays nicely on top of retinoids or exfoliating acids.
Good for: Anti-inflammatory
A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.
Good for: Exfoliating, Antioxidant
A silicone that sits on your skin as an invisible, non-greasy shield. Reduces water loss, protects against irritants (think soap, friction, incontinence), and is FDA-recognised as a skin protectant from 1-30%. The reason your favourite primer feels silky and your barrier cream actually works under makeup.
Good for: Barrier repair, Hydrating
A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.
Good for: Hydrating
Exfoliates the surface of your skin to smooth rough texture and fade dullness. The strongest of the AHAs, so start slow.
Good for: Exfoliating
A pure hydrator that holds water in your skin. Makes skin look plumper and smoother almost immediately.
Good for: Hydrating
A gentler exfoliator that also hydrates as it works. Good entry point if you have sensitive skin and want to try acids.
Good for: Exfoliating, Hydrating
A "natural skin lightener" with actual clinical-trial backing for melasma. A placebo-controlled study showed real MASI improvement. Sits well alongside vitamin C, alpha-arbutin, or niacinamide in a brightening stack.
Good for: Brightening, Antioxidant
A multitasker that calms redness, evens out skin tone, and helps oily skin balance out. One of the safest do-a-little-of-everything ingredients.
Good for: Brightening, Barrier repair, Anti-inflammatory
Evidence behind the ingredients
Real citations from our research database, one per tracked active in this product. Click any ingredient name to read its full evidence dossier.
Calms irritation and adds light hydration. The classic for sunburned or reactive skin.
Huang YN et al., Effects of Aloe vera on Burn Injuries: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials, Journal of Burn Care & Research 2024;45(6):1536-1545 — topical aloe vera reduced burn wound-healing time
Tungkasamit T et al., Reduction in severity of radiation-induced dermatitis in head and neck cancer patients treated with topical aloe vera gel: A randomized multicenter double-blind placebo-controlled trial, European Journal of Oncology Nursing 2022;59:102164 — aloe vera reduced severity of moderate-to-severe radiation dermatitis
Sharma S et al., Second-Degree Burns and Aloe Vera: A Meta-analysis and Systematic Review, Advances in Skin & Wound Care 2022;35(11):1-9 — topical aloe vera shortened time to healing for second-degree burns
The "calm-down" molecule in many sensitive-skin formulas. Reduces redness and stinging without bleaching your barrier, and plays nicely on top of retinoids or exfoliating acids.
Wu Y et al., Exploring the mechanism of alpha-Bisabolol in the treatment of psoriasis based on network pharmacology and experimental validation, European Journal of Pharmacology 2025 — alpha-bisabolol suppressed inflammation in TNF-alpha-treated keratinocytes and psoriasis mice via PI3K/AKT and NF-kB pathways; reduced IL-6, IL-1beta, TNF-alpha and skin lesions
Karami H et al. (Brazil), Development of a hydrogel containing bisabolol-loaded nanocapsules for the treatment of atopic dermatitis in a Balb/c mice model, International Journal of Pharmaceutics 2024
Tan C et al. (Brazil), The combination of allantoin, bisabolol, D-panthenol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate mitigates UVB-induced PGE2 synthesis by keratinocytes, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2024
A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.
Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. 2018;23(4):863.
Yamamoto Y, Uede K, Yonei N, Kishioka A, Ohtani T, Furukawa F. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the human skin of Japanese subjects: the rationale for chemical peeling. Journal of Dermatology. 2006 Jan;33(1):16-22. — Clinical-mechanistic study in Japanese subjects demonstrating AHA (including citric acid class) keratolytic and epidermal renewal effects as rationale for chemical peeling.
Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Lakkakorpi J, et al. Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatologic Surgery. 1997 Aug;23(8):689-694. — Mechanistic study showing topical citric acid increased viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans in sun-damaged skin, similar to glycolic acid and retinoic acid.
+−7 more ingredients
A silicone that sits on your skin as an invisible, non-greasy shield. Reduces water loss, protects against irritants (think soap, friction, incontinence), and is FDA-recognised as a skin protectant from 1-30%. The reason your favourite primer feels silky and your barrier cream actually works under makeup.
Beeckman D, Verhaeghe S, Defloor T, et al. A 3-in-1 perineal care washcloth impregnated with dimethicone 3% versus water and pH neutral soap to prevent and treat incontinence-associated dermatitis: a randomized, controlled clinical trial. J Wound Ostomy Continence Nurs. 2011;38(6):627-634.
Saary J, Qureshi R, Palda V, et al. A systematic review of contact dermatitis treatment and prevention. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2005;53(5):845-855. (Barrier creams containing dimethicone prevent irritant contact dermatitis.)
FDA OTC Final Monograph, 21 CFR Part 347 — Skin Protectant Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use; dimethicone listed at section 347.10 as a Category I active ingredient at 1-30%.
A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.
Danby SG et al., Different types of emollient cream exhibit diverse physiological effects on the skin barrier in adults with atopic dermatitis, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 2022;47(6):1154-1164 — glycerol+urea emollient delivered superior barrier-strengthening and irritant protection
Youssef R et al., Glycerol 85% efficacy on atopic skin and its microbiome: a randomized controlled trial, Journal of Dermatological Treatment 2021;32(7):730-736 — topical glycerol 85% RCT on atopic skin
Evans NJ et al., Human axillary skin condition is improved following incorporation of glycerol into the stratum corneum from an antiperspirant formulation, Archives of Dermatological Research 2017;309(9):739-748 — 4% glycerol penetrated axillary SC, reduced irritation, improved hydration
Exfoliates the surface of your skin to smooth rough texture and fade dullness. The strongest of the AHAs, so start slow.
Liu H et al., Topical agents for acne (covers AHA / fruit-acid arm), Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews 2020;5:CD011368 — conclusion: clinical benefit is unclear
Sarkar R et al., Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic-Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasma, Dermatologic Surgery 2016;42(3):384-391 — 35% glycolic acid and salicylic-mandelic peels equally effective and safe for melasma in Indian skin
Kubiak M et al., Evaluation of 70% glycolic peels versus 15% trichloroacetic peels for the treatment of photodamaged facial skin in aging women, Dermatologic Surgery 2014;40(8):883-891 — both peels improved photodamaged skin; glycolic acid showed faster hydration recovery
A pure hydrator that holds water in your skin. Makes skin look plumper and smoother almost immediately.
Karabat MU, Tuncer MC. Effects of hyaluronic acid on skin at the cellular level: a systematic review. Rev Assoc Med Bras. 2025;71(8):e20250208. — Systematic review of 45 studies found low-molecular-weight HA stimulates keratinocyte proliferation and migration while high-molecular-weight HA drives skin hydration, supporting topical HA as an effective skin-hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredient.
Bravo B et al., Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence, Dermatology and Therapy 2022;12(12):2657-2680 — HA-based cosmeceuticals reliably improve hydration and signs of skin aging
Lee SG et al., Hyaluronan Oligosaccharides Improve Rosacea-Like Phenotype through Anti-Inflammatory and Epidermal Barrier-Improving Effects, Annals of Dermatology 2020
A gentler exfoliator that also hydrates as it works. Good entry point if you have sensitive skin and want to try acids.
Fanning N et al., Treatment of mild-to-moderate facial cutaneous aging using a combination peel containing 6% trichloroacetic acid and 12% lactic acid, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2023;22(11):3033-3041 — three monthly peels significantly improved clarity, pigmentation, fine lines, roughness in 32 subjects
Tang SC, Yang JH, Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin, Molecules 2018;23(4):863 — effect concentration-dependent
Babilas P et al., Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acids, JDDG: Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft 2012 — supports AHAs including lactic acid for photoaging, pigmentation, and barrier effects
A "natural skin lightener" with actual clinical-trial backing for melasma. A placebo-controlled study showed real MASI improvement. Sits well alongside vitamin C, alpha-arbutin, or niacinamide in a brightening stack.
Prasawang N, Sutjarit N, Sitthipunya A, et al. Inhibition of Tyrosinase and Melanogenesis by a White Mulberry Fruit Extract. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2025 Aug 6;26(15):7589. — Demonstrated dose-dependent inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis by white mulberry crude extract in B16F10 cells and zebrafish embryos without cytotoxicity.
Goelzer Neto CF et al., Natural sources of melanogenic inhibitors: A systematic review, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2022;44(2):143-153 — SR identifying Morus alba (mulberry) as a notable melanogenesis inhibitor
Zhang L et al., Moraceae Plants with Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity: A Review, Mini Reviews in Medicinal Chemistry 2017;17(13):1148-1157 — Morus alba and related Moraceae compounds demonstrate enzymatic tyrosinase inhibition and clinical whitening effects competitive with available depigmenting agents
A multitasker that calms redness, evens out skin tone, and helps oily skin balance out. One of the safest do-a-little-of-everything ingredients.
Moro F et al., Skin Cancer Prevention and Antiaging: Role of Nicotinamide, International Journal of Molecular Sciences 2026
Passeron T et al., An Investigator-Blinded, Randomized Trial of a Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen Containing Sclareolide and Niacinamide, Dermatology and Therapy (Heidelberg) 2026
Vergilio MM et al., Topical Formulation with Niacinamide Combined with 5 MHz Ultrasound for Improving Skin Ageing, Current Medicinal Chemistry 2025
Sources: 10 clinical journals and regulatory databases across the US, EU, Korea, Japan, and China. Every entry points to a specific document. See methodology for the full list and what each outcome label means.
Layering conflicts
Ingredients in this product that can react with common actives. Avoid stacking unless noted.
- Retinolhigh
Retinol + glycolic acid is a classic barrier-buster. Use on different nights.
- Tretinoinhigh
Tretinoin + glycolic acid causes significant barrier disruption. Never layer.
- Adapalenemedium
Adapalene + glycolic acid can over-exfoliate. Alternate nights.
- Salicylic Acidmedium
AHA + BHA stacking risks over-exfoliation. Use a pre-formulated AHA/BHA product or alternate days.
Similar comparisons
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