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Moisturizer
Santa Maria Novella

Idralia Maschera

~$134

What it's good for

Key actives from our research database. Click any to read the full evidence dossier.

  • BisabololModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    The "calm-down" molecule in many sensitive-skin formulas. Reduces redness and stinging without bleaching your barrier, and plays nicely on top of retinoids or exfoliating acids.

    Good for: Anti-inflammatory

  • CeramidesStrong evidenceFull dossier ↗

    Refills the natural barrier between your skin cells. Locks moisture in, keeps irritants out, calms dry or damaged skin.

    Good for: Barrier repair

  • Citric AcidModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.

    Good for: Exfoliating, Antioxidant

  • EctoinModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A desert-bacteria-derived molecule that wraps skin cells in a protective water layer. Genuinely helpful for irritated, atopic-prone, or post-procedure skin.

    Good for: Hydrating, Barrier repair, Anti-inflammatory

  • GlycerinModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

    Good for: Hydrating

  • Jojoba OilModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    Technically a wax that masquerades as oil, molecularly closer to your own sebum than any other plant oil. Hydrates without clogging pores, calms inflammation, and plays well in acne-prone and sensitive routines.

    Good for: Hydrating, Barrier repair, Anti-inflammatory

  • Lactic AcidStrong evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A gentler exfoliator that also hydrates as it works. Good entry point if you have sensitive skin and want to try acids.

    Good for: Exfoliating, Hydrating

  • Shea ButterModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A rich, naturally occlusive plant butter from the African karite tree. Soothes dry, irritation-prone skin, refills the lipid barrier, and was well tolerated enough in randomized trials that most participants used it comfortably as a daily emollient.

    Good for: Barrier repair, Hydrating, Anti-inflammatory

  • Vitamin EModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A workhorse antioxidant that defends your skin from daily oxidative damage. Pairs especially well with vitamin C, and it's in nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

    Good for: Antioxidant

New to this? Patch test on your inner arm for 24 to 48 hours before applying to your face. If you have sensitive skin or rosacea, start 2 to 3 times per week and build up slowly.

Evidence behind the ingredients

Real citations from our research database, one per tracked active in this product. Click any ingredient name to read its full evidence dossier.

BisabololModerate evidence6 citations

The "calm-down" molecule in many sensitive-skin formulas. Reduces redness and stinging without bleaching your barrier, and plays nicely on top of retinoids or exfoliating acids.

Wu Y et al., Exploring the mechanism of alpha-Bisabolol in the treatment of psoriasis based on network pharmacology and experimental validation, European Journal of Pharmacology 2025 — alpha-bisabolol suppressed inflammation in TNF-alpha-treated keratinocytes and psoriasis mice via PI3K/AKT and NF-kB pathways; reduced IL-6, IL-1beta, TNF-alpha and skin lesions

2025Mechanism onlyPMID:40089261View source ↗

Karami H et al. (Brazil), Development of a hydrogel containing bisabolol-loaded nanocapsules for the treatment of atopic dermatitis in a Balb/c mice model, International Journal of Pharmaceutics 2024

2024Positive (efficacy)PMID:38527566View source ↗

Tan C et al. (Brazil), The combination of allantoin, bisabolol, D-panthenol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate mitigates UVB-induced PGE2 synthesis by keratinocytes, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2024

2024Mechanism onlyPMID:38433250View source ↗
CeramidesStrong evidence7 citations

Refills the natural barrier between your skin cells. Locks moisture in, keeps irritants out, calms dry or damaged skin.

Andrew PV et al., Topical supplementation with physiological lipids rebalances the stratum corneum ceramide profile and strengthens skin barrier function in adults predisposed to atopic dermatitis, British Journal of Dermatology 2025;193(4):729-740 — physiological-lipid emulsion raised SC ceramide NP/AP and improved barrier function vs control

2025Positive (efficacy)PMID:40408261View source ↗

Nugroho WT, Sawitri, Astindari, Utomo B, Listiawan MY, Ervianti E, Astari L. The Efficacy of Moisturisers Containing Ceramide Compared with Other Moisturisers in the Management of Atopic Dermatitis: A Systematic Literature Review and Meta-Analysis. Indian J Dermatol. 2023;68(1):53-58. — Meta-analysis of 5 studies found ceramide-containing moisturisers produced significantly greater improvement in SCORAD compared with non-ceramide moisturisers in atopic dermatitis.

2023Meta-analysis (positive)PMID:37151263View source ↗

Shindo S et al., Effects of a moisturizer containing pseudo-ceramide and a eucalyptus extract on sweating function in adult atopic dermatitis: a double-blind, randomized, controlled left-right comparison clinical trial, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2022;21(10):4503-4509 — pseudo-ceramide + eucalyptus moisturizer restored sweating function and barrier in AD adults

2022Positive (efficacy)PMID:35298858View source ↗
Citric AcidModerate evidence4 citations

A fruit-derived AHA that exfoliates and antioxidizes. It shares the same basic mechanism as glycolic and lactic acid but is weaker gram-for-gram; in practice you'll see it doing dual duty (a little exfoliation plus pH stabilisation) in multi-acid toners and serums. When it appears low on an ingredient list, it's adjusting pH; higher up, it's contributing real exfoliation.

Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin. Molecules. 2018;23(4):863.

2018Mechanism onlyPMC:PMC6017965View source ↗

Yamamoto Y, Uede K, Yonei N, Kishioka A, Ohtani T, Furukawa F. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the human skin of Japanese subjects: the rationale for chemical peeling. Journal of Dermatology. 2006 Jan;33(1):16-22. — Clinical-mechanistic study in Japanese subjects demonstrating AHA (including citric acid class) keratolytic and epidermal renewal effects as rationale for chemical peeling.

2006Mechanism onlyPMID:16469079View source ↗

Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Lakkakorpi J, et al. Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatologic Surgery. 1997 Aug;23(8):689-694. — Mechanistic study showing topical citric acid increased viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans in sun-damaged skin, similar to glycolic acid and retinoic acid.

1997Mechanism onlyPMID:9256916View source ↗
+6 more ingredients
EctoinModerate evidence5 citations

A desert-bacteria-derived molecule that wraps skin cells in a protective water layer. Genuinely helpful for irritated, atopic-prone, or post-procedure skin.

Wu PY et al., The Skin Hydration and Anti-Ageing Benefits of Ectoine, Achieved Through Enhanced Src-ERK-Mediated HAS-2 and JNK-Driven AQP-3 Expression in Human Keratinocytes, Along with the Inhibition of MMP-1-Induced Collagen-I Degradation in Human Fibroblasts, Both With and Without UVB Irradiation, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2026

2026Mechanism onlyPMID:41116229View source ↗

Abd Elazim NE, Awad SM, El-Naggar MS, Mohamed RH, Topical Ectoin Versus Topical Dexpanthenol for Managing Acute Radiodermatitis Associated With Breast Cancer Radiotherapy: A Randomized Double-Blind Study, Dermatitis 2023;34(6):516-524 — double-blind RCT showed ectoin reduced symptom severity (pain, itching) and quality-of-life impairment vs dexpanthenol

2023Positive (efficacy)PMID:37792331View source ↗

Hon KL, Kung JS, Ng WG, Leung TF, Testing an Ectoin Containing Emollient for Atopic Dermatitis, Current Pediatric Reviews 2019;15(3):191-194

2019Positive (efficacy)PMID:30987568View source ↗
GlycerinModerate evidence6 citations

A workhorse hydrator that pulls water into your skin. In nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

Danby SG et al., Different types of emollient cream exhibit diverse physiological effects on the skin barrier in adults with atopic dermatitis, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 2022;47(6):1154-1164 — glycerol+urea emollient delivered superior barrier-strengthening and irritant protection

2022Positive (efficacy)PMID:35167133View source ↗

Youssef R et al., Glycerol 85% efficacy on atopic skin and its microbiome: a randomized controlled trial, Journal of Dermatological Treatment 2021;32(7):730-736 — topical glycerol 85% RCT on atopic skin

2021Positive (efficacy)PMID:31869257View source ↗

Evans NJ et al., Human axillary skin condition is improved following incorporation of glycerol into the stratum corneum from an antiperspirant formulation, Archives of Dermatological Research 2017;309(9):739-748 — 4% glycerol penetrated axillary SC, reduced irritation, improved hydration

2017Positive (efficacy)PMID:28889318View source ↗
Jojoba OilModerate evidence6 citations

Technically a wax that masquerades as oil, molecularly closer to your own sebum than any other plant oil. Hydrates without clogging pores, calms inflammation, and plays well in acne-prone and sensitive routines.

Tietel Z, Melamed S, Ogen-Shtern N, et al. Topical application of jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis L.) wax enhances the synthesis of pro-collagen III and hyaluronic acid and reduces inflammation in the ex-vivo human skin organ culture model. Frontiers in Pharmacology. 2024;15:1333085. — Ex-vivo human skin model showing jojoba wax reduced LPS-induced IL-6/IL-8/TNFα by ~30% and enhanced pro-collagen III and hyaluronic acid synthesis.

2024Mechanism onlyPMID:38344180View source ↗

Blaak J, Staib P, An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2022;44(1):1-9 — jojoba oil documented as effective for strengthening stratum corneum integrity, recovery, and lipid ratio

2022Meta-analysis (positive)PMID:34957578View source ↗

Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL, Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils, International Journal of Molecular Sciences 2017;19(1):70 — jojoba reviewed among 19 plant oils: supports stratum-corneum lipid replenishment, anti-inflammatory and wound-healing effects

2017Mechanism onlyPMID:29280987View source ↗
Lactic AcidStrong evidence5 citations

A gentler exfoliator that also hydrates as it works. Good entry point if you have sensitive skin and want to try acids.

Fanning N et al., Treatment of mild-to-moderate facial cutaneous aging using a combination peel containing 6% trichloroacetic acid and 12% lactic acid, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2023;22(11):3033-3041 — three monthly peels significantly improved clarity, pigmentation, fine lines, roughness in 32 subjects

2023Positive (efficacy)PMID:37227430View source ↗

Tang SC, Yang JH, Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin, Molecules 2018;23(4):863 — effect concentration-dependent

2018Positive (efficacy)PMID:29642579View source ↗

Babilas P et al., Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acids, JDDG: Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft 2012 — supports AHAs including lactic acid for photoaging, pigmentation, and barrier effects

2012Meta-analysis (positive)PMID:22916351View source ↗
Shea ButterModerate evidence4 citations

A rich, naturally occlusive plant butter from the African karite tree. Soothes dry, irritation-prone skin, refills the lipid barrier, and was well tolerated enough in randomized trials that most participants used it comfortably as a daily emollient.

O'Connor RJ et al., Clinical Evaluation of a Diaper Containing a Shea Butter-Based Emollient and Impact on Diapered Skin Erythema, Pediatr Dermatol 2025;42(3):532-538 — RCT n=271 infants, shea-butter diaper reduced dermatitis

2025Positive (efficacy)PMID:40189822View source ↗

Burnett CL, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Safety Assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (Shea)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel Final Report.

2024Safety assessmentDOI:10.1177/10915818231224230View source ↗

Verallo-Rowell VM, Katalbas SS, Pangasinan JP. Natural (Mineral, Vegetable, Coconut, Essential) Oils and Contact Dermatitis. Curr Allergy Asthma Rep. 2016;16(7):51. — discussing shea butter unsaponifiable fraction NF-kB inhibition and dermatologic use.

2016Mechanism onlyPMID:27373890View source ↗
Vitamin EModerate evidence6 citations

A workhorse antioxidant that defends your skin from daily oxidative damage. Pairs especially well with vitamin C, and it's in nearly every good moisturizer for a reason.

Neves JR et al., Efficacy of a topical serum containing L-ascorbic acid, neohesperidin, pycnogenol, tocopherol, and hyaluronic acid in relation to skin aging signs, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2022;21(10):4462-4469 — tocopherol-containing antioxidant serum reduced pollution-induced damage and improved aging signs

2022Positive (efficacy)PMID:35150043View source ↗

Warshaw EM et al., Patch Testing With Tocopherol and Tocopherol Acetate: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group Experience, 2001 to 2016, Dermatitis 2021;32(5):308-318 — 15-year NACDG data: positive patch-test reactions to tocopherol rare given widespread cosmetic use

2021Safety assessmentPMID:34238818View source ↗

Lin FH et al., Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin, Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2005;125(4):826-832 — ferulic acid + vit C + vit E combo doubled photoprotection vs C+E alone (cross-listed; same paper cited for Ferulic Acid and Vit C)

2005Positive (efficacy)PMID:16185284View source ↗

Sources: 10 clinical journals and regulatory databases across the US, EU, Korea, Japan, and China. Every entry points to a specific document. See methodology for the full list and what each outcome label means.

Layering conflicts

Ingredients in this product that can react with common actives. Avoid stacking unless noted.

  • Tretinoin + lactic acid — stack of two active resurfacers, very irritating.

  • Retinolmedium

    Retinol + lactic acid is gentler than glycolic but still alternate nights to be safe.

Similar comparisons

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