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Shop esmi skin minerals Detoxifying Exfoliating Charcoal Serum
Serum
esmi skin minerals

Detoxifying Exfoliating Charcoal Serum

~$10· 1.01 Fl Oz (Pack of 1)

What it's good for

Key actives from our research database. Click any to read the full evidence dossier.

  • Glycolic AcidStrong evidenceFull dossier ↗

    Exfoliates the surface of your skin to smooth rough texture and fade dullness. The strongest of the AHAs, so start slow.

    Good for: Exfoliating

  • Jojoba OilModerate evidenceFull dossier ↗

    Technically a wax that masquerades as oil, molecularly closer to your own sebum than any other plant oil. Hydrates without clogging pores, calms inflammation, and plays well in acne-prone and sensitive routines.

    Good for: Hydrating, Barrier repair, Anti-inflammatory

  • Lactic AcidStrong evidenceFull dossier ↗

    A gentler exfoliator that also hydrates as it works. Good entry point if you have sensitive skin and want to try acids.

    Good for: Exfoliating, Hydrating

New to this? Patch test on your inner arm for 24 to 48 hours before applying to your face. If you have sensitive skin or rosacea, start 2 to 3 times per week and build up slowly.

Evidence behind the ingredients

Real citations from our research database, one per tracked active in this product. Click any ingredient name to read its full evidence dossier.

Glycolic AcidStrong evidence6 citations

Exfoliates the surface of your skin to smooth rough texture and fade dullness. The strongest of the AHAs, so start slow.

Liu H et al., Topical agents for acne (covers AHA / fruit-acid arm), Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews 2020;5:CD011368 — conclusion: clinical benefit is unclear

2020Meta-analysis (mixed)PMID:32356369View source ↗

Sarkar R et al., Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic-Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasma, Dermatologic Surgery 2016;42(3):384-391 — 35% glycolic acid and salicylic-mandelic peels equally effective and safe for melasma in Indian skin

2016Positive (efficacy)PMID:26859648View source ↗

Kubiak M et al., Evaluation of 70% glycolic peels versus 15% trichloroacetic peels for the treatment of photodamaged facial skin in aging women, Dermatologic Surgery 2014;40(8):883-891 — both peels improved photodamaged skin; glycolic acid showed faster hydration recovery

2014Positive (efficacy)PMID:25068547View source ↗
Jojoba OilModerate evidence6 citations

Technically a wax that masquerades as oil, molecularly closer to your own sebum than any other plant oil. Hydrates without clogging pores, calms inflammation, and plays well in acne-prone and sensitive routines.

Tietel Z, Melamed S, Ogen-Shtern N, et al. Topical application of jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis L.) wax enhances the synthesis of pro-collagen III and hyaluronic acid and reduces inflammation in the ex-vivo human skin organ culture model. Frontiers in Pharmacology. 2024;15:1333085. — Ex-vivo human skin model showing jojoba wax reduced LPS-induced IL-6/IL-8/TNFα by ~30% and enhanced pro-collagen III and hyaluronic acid synthesis.

2024Mechanism onlyPMID:38344180View source ↗

Blaak J, Staib P, An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2022;44(1):1-9 — jojoba oil documented as effective for strengthening stratum corneum integrity, recovery, and lipid ratio

2022Meta-analysis (positive)PMID:34957578View source ↗

Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL, Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils, International Journal of Molecular Sciences 2017;19(1):70 — jojoba reviewed among 19 plant oils: supports stratum-corneum lipid replenishment, anti-inflammatory and wound-healing effects

2017Mechanism onlyPMID:29280987View source ↗
Lactic AcidStrong evidence5 citations

A gentler exfoliator that also hydrates as it works. Good entry point if you have sensitive skin and want to try acids.

Fanning N et al., Treatment of mild-to-moderate facial cutaneous aging using a combination peel containing 6% trichloroacetic acid and 12% lactic acid, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2023;22(11):3033-3041 — three monthly peels significantly improved clarity, pigmentation, fine lines, roughness in 32 subjects

2023Positive (efficacy)PMID:37227430View source ↗

Tang SC, Yang JH, Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin, Molecules 2018;23(4):863 — effect concentration-dependent

2018Positive (efficacy)PMID:29642579View source ↗

Babilas P et al., Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acids, JDDG: Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft 2012 — supports AHAs including lactic acid for photoaging, pigmentation, and barrier effects

2012Meta-analysis (positive)PMID:22916351View source ↗

Sources: 10 clinical journals and regulatory databases across the US, EU, Korea, Japan, and China. Every entry points to a specific document. See methodology for the full list and what each outcome label means.

Layering conflicts

Ingredients in this product that can react with common actives. Avoid stacking unless noted.

  • Retinol + glycolic acid is a classic barrier-buster. Use on different nights.

  • Tretinoin + glycolic acid causes significant barrier disruption. Never layer.

  • Adapalenemedium

    Adapalene + glycolic acid can over-exfoliate. Alternate nights.

  • AHA + BHA stacking risks over-exfoliation. Use a pre-formulated AHA/BHA product or alternate days.

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Not medical advice. GlowPal is educational. Patch-test new products and talk to a qualified healthcare professional before changing your routine, especially if you're pregnant, nursing, or have a diagnosed skin condition. See our terms.